{Quilting 101} A Guide to Sewing Machine Needles

Let's deep dive into the world of sewing machine needles! Choosing the right one for your project is important but where do you begin?

Have you ever shopped for sewing machine needles at the haberdashery store and been confused by all the brands, sizes and those weird numbers on the packets? It happens to everyone, and it can feel intimidating!

Today I'm deep diving into the world of sewing machine needles to discover the purpose of the most common needle types and how they function in our machines, and I'll be sharing tips for troubleshooting and changing your machine needle. 

I've also included PDF Quick Reference Charts for you can download and print for easy reference. They will be a valuable resource in your sewing room and help you shop with confidence and peace of mind.

A sewing machine needle can make or break a project and the right one gives your seams a professional finish, eliminating broken threads or skipped stitches. It will create neat even stitches and make sewing a pleasurable experience.

Let's go!

Anatomy of a Sewing Machine Needle

There's more to a sewing machine needle than meets the eye (pardon the pun).  It consists of several parts, and they all serve a particular function. Understanding the individual parts and how they behave makes choosing the right needle for your project easier.

• Shank: the thick upper part of the needle that is inserted into your sewing machine. Generally, there's a flat and rounded side to ensure the needle is positioned correctly - flat side to the back, rounded to the front. 
• Shaft: the long area of the needle spanning from the shank to the tip. This includes the scarf, groove, eye and point of the needle. The shaft diameter determines the size of the needle.
• Groove: an indentation along the front of the needle leading to the eye. This keeps the thread in place as it passes through the eye of the needle as we sew. The groove size varies depending on the size of the needle.
• Scarf: an indentation on the backside of the needle which allows the bobbin hook to grab the thread from under the throat plate and create the stitch.
• Eye: this is where our thread goes. It's the part of the needle that carries the thread so the sewing machine can form stitches. The size varies according to the needle type, and it's recommended that the thread should not occupy more than 40% of the space of the needles eye so it can move quickly and easily.
• Tip: the sharp end of the needle that pierces the fabric. This is the needles first contact point, and the right needle will pass through the threads without damaging the fabrics.

Each part serves an important function, and as we look at the types of needles available you will see how these parts differ to sew specific fabrics.

Durability of the Sewing Machine Needle

Cost and durability are important considerations when choosing sewing machine needles. We want the best for our dollar, and we want our needles to function efficiently.

Sewing machine needles are specifically designed to use in domestic machines. Generally, they're constructed from various grades of hardened steel and then coated with either nickel or chrome - specialty needles can include an extra titanium coating.

Nickel plating is the least expensive coating option, and while it prevents corrosion and improves smoothness, it only slightly increases the hardness or lifespan of the needle. Chrome plating is hard and improves the durability of the needle making it last longer and create less friction. They are more expensive than the nickel-plated needles, but they offer better stitch performance, and you'll require less needle changes.

Most sewing needle manufacturers recommend changing your needle every 6-8 hours. It's a good practice to change needles regularly, as they become blunt or dull from wear and friction. Be vigilant while sewing and change your needle if your machine skips stitches, makes a popping noise or if you hit a pin - the tip will sustain damage.

Sewing machine needles are relatively cheap and a fresh new needle will achieve the best results for your project.

Types of Sewing Machine Needles

Sewing machine needles are classified by two characteristics - their thickness and their purpose.

The thickness of the needle determines the fabrics it can sew through without damaging the threads.

Thicker needles can sew through thicker fabrics such as denim and leather, where thinner needles are suited to finer fabrics like silk and chiffon.

The purpose of the needle determines its constitution and how the needle performs. Let's take a look at some of the most common needles and how they function:

• Universal - all purpose, slightly rounded point and small shaft suitable for most fabrics including woven and knit fabrics. Available in the most sizes.
• Quilting - special taper to a slightly rounded point. Larger eye for thicker threads. Suitable for piecing and quilting as it penetrates fabrics easily.
• Topstitch - thicker needle with a slightly rounded point, elongated eye to prevent stress on the thread. Good for metallic, heavy or poor-quality threads.
• Stretch - medium ball point, smaller eye, weaker shaft to flex with knits. Good for high elastic fabrics such as Lyra, Spandex or elastic.
• Denim - modified medium ball point, able to penetrate thick woven fabrics such as denim with reduced breakage.
• Leather - large, round shaft and a longer groove. Perfect for leather, suedes and other thicker fabrics.
• Embroidery - light ball point, enlarged eye and wide groove. Protects fragile threads from friction.
• Jersey - medium ball point designed to avoid breakage of knit fibers. Use on knit and stretch fabrics.

I've included a quick reference chart for Sewing Machine Needle Types for you to download and print. Simply click on the link or right click on the photo below and save to your computer:

Needle Sizes and What Those Numbers Mean

One of the most confusing things about sewing machine needles are those weird numbers on the packet. So, what do these numbers mean?

The numbers represent the size of the sewing machine needles. There are usually two numbers, and they represent both American and European systems. The American sizing runs from 8 to 19 and the European sizing runs from 60 to 120.

In both systems, the larger the number the thicker the fabric you can sew, while smaller numbers are for finer fabrics e.g. 110/18 would be used for denim and 60/8 would be used for silk and organza.

Most sewing machine needle packets contain both numbers so you can easily identify the size depending on the system you are familiar with. Packets of assorted needles give you several options for sewing different projects and can be more economical.

I've included a quick reference chart for Sewing Machine Needle Sizes for you to download and print. Simply click on the link or right click on the photo below:

Trouble Shooting Common Problems

We all hit a snag with our sewing machine needles as we're working on a project. Here are some of the most common problems and how to fix them:

• Skipped stitches - the sewing machine needle may be old, dull or deformed. Replace it with a fresh new needle.
• Shedding Thread - your needle may be too small for the thread. Change to a larger needle or downsize to a thinner thread.
• Breaking needles - your needle could be too small for the fabric thickness. Replace with a larger needle. Your needle may also not be inserted correctly. Check your needles stability and reinsert if required.
• Large holes - this indicates the needle is too large for the fabric. Downsize to a smaller needle.
• Popping noises - your needle is worn, damaged or bent. Replace with a new one.
• Needle getting stuck - the thread is too thick for the needle. Change the thread or use a larger needle.
• Bent needle - remove pins before they reach the needle plate to prevent needles bending or breaking. Ensure sewing machine needle is aligned properly and not hitting the needle plate.

How To Change Your Sewing Machine Needle

Always refer to your sewing machine manual for any maintenance, but here's a step-by-step guide to changing your needle.

• Step 1 - Turn off your machine, unthread the needle and make sure the needle is at its highest point by turning the hand wheel. 
• Step 2 - Locate the knob for the clamp that holds the sewing needle. This will need to be loosened either by hand or with the screwdriver that is included with your machine.
• Step 3 - Hold the needle in one hand so it doesn't fall into the machine and loosen the clamp by turning the knob to the left. The needle should slide out easily.
• Step 4 - Dispose of the old needle safely and correctly.
• Step 5 - Hold the new needle with the flat side facing the back and slide it into the clamp as far as it will go.
• Step 6 - While holding the needle in place, tighten the clamp by turning the knob to the right, using the screwdriver if necessary.
• Step 7 - To check the needle is in position correctly, raise the hand wheel up and down to ensure it clears the needle plate, and give the needle a slight wiggle to ensure it is stable.
• Step 8 - Rethread your needle ready to sew!

The needle is the heart of the sewing machine. It facilitates the sewing process, and your machine will function perfectly with the correct needle and thread combination.

The role of the needle is to deliver thread from the top and through the fabric while the machine's hook grabs the bobbin thread, and they intertwine to create a stitch without skipping a beat!

The correct needle will create neat even stitches, there will be no damage to the fabric and your project will finish just as you intended.

Don't take the humble sewing machine needle for granted. Choosing the right one for your project will yield the best results and make you one very happy quilter indeed!

PIN FOR LATER:

Happy quilting :)